Blog sites were blocked while I was in China - everything from blogger to wordpress to tumblr. So I'll be slowly posting journalings of my recent travels through the mainland.
May 13Visit to the Forbidden City. What were the emperors’ favorite nooks of this walled city? The Imperial Garden appeared to be a favorite place of Qian Long who wrote poems in the green space, but where else did they hide themselves away to contemplate?

In the evening, we went to a dinner-theatre restaurant featuring Mongolian singers and dancers who put on an epic performance that encompassed a traditional wedding courtship and party – faux roasted lamb and all. The costumes and dancing were opulent; the women were exquisitely beautiful. The dancers were incredibly athletic and strong. The American equivalent experience might be something like Medieval Times, but really, there is nothing that seems even close.

Hugh Ferrer receives a kataMay 14Snuck off this morning with the American writers and Edward to Tianamen Square to try and get a glimpse of Chairman Mao’s corpse in his crystal coffin. We arrived at around 7:30 and joined the line, which appeared to be only several hundred deep. Turned out as we rounded corner after corner to see more throngs of people that there were thousands of people in line. I did not see any non-Chinese faces until we started to make our way away from the square. We had to be back at the hotel in time to bus over to the National Museum of Modern Chinese Literature this morning. So the adventure ended short of seeing Mao’s body. I wondered statistically, what human remains get the most visitors a year – Mao, Lenin, Lucy, or King Tut.

The literature museum is fully funded by the federal government and operates on a budget of 1 million dollars a year. They do not have to fundraise. The Museum has an 80-person staff, 60 full-time and 20 part-time who serve about 32,000 to 40,000 visitors a year. This is not a lot, but because the museum is owned by the government, it is basically guaranteed to continue.
The galleries themselves were spread out over three floors. The first floor felt closer to climate-controlled, but as we climbed higher up into the building, it must have been over 75 degrees in some of those spaces. No relative humidity meters that I could detect. Most objects were under glass or enclosed in cases, except for the environmental installations of famous writers’ work spaces. Saw the workspace of Ding Ling, but not younger writers like Wang Anyi or Li Ang. A small section devoted to Chinese diasporic writers, but mainly this museum serves as an institution meant to inspire elementary and middle school students to learn more about the lives of the writers whom they read in their schooling. The first floor included a variety of green, leafy plants. I asked about a collections care manager (pest control!) and was told that the Museum is focusing more on acquisitions, in terms of its collections.

Mural in entry way to gallery

Guide to mural, note plants, pest liability!

Ding Ling's writing space
In the afternoon, we made it to the Olympic Village and the famous Bird’s Nest which is now a bit ghostly. The turf is in disrepair and the stuffed mascots of the Olympics are soiled by dirt and human hands. Muzak is piped in and the group identified “Moon River” and “Guantanamera.”

Olympic mascots and meIn the early evening, we flew to Dunhuang from the Beijing airport, with a short stopover. We checked into our
hotel, an imposing oasis resort rising out of the desert dunes. The night-time arrival was positively cinematic. One can hear the cry of cuckoos from the rooftop. They are according to Eni (Lihui), the sacred and auspicious bird of the Yi people.
May 15
The Mogao Caves are the jewel of Dunhuang. Man-made caves were built in ancient times by monks who used the 400+ cave complex to meditate and express their devotion through creating elaborate murals. The caves are filled with statuary and wall murals depicting buddhas, bodhisattvas and apsaras. There is a 9-story sculpture of the Buddha that is 30 meters tall in one cave and a giant reclining Buddha in another cave. It was this later that was most moving to me – the figure is surrounded by his disciples as he enters parinirvana. The expressions on his disciples faces range from joy to agony, and are perhaps the most striking aspect of the scene. Kuan Yin was a repeated image throughout the caves, and the Chinese’s devotion to this goddess of mercy is apparent. In Cave 45, she appears along side several narrative pictorials including a prisoner being sent to execution whom invokes her name and escapes death. Elsewhere on the wall, there is a group of fisherman who meet devils and a dangerous storm. By invoking Kuan Yin’s name, they survive the ordeal. Some of the caves, including #45 are badly damaged by smoke – in the 1900s, a group of White Russians were imprisoned in the caves where they lived for a year. They slept in the caves and made cookfires which blackened some of the murals. It was only about 10 years ago, according to the poet Si Chuan who accompanies us on this trip, that the caves became more tightly controlled and closed to visitors. At one time, anyone could enter the caves freely – now they are behind closed and locked doors to protect them from sunlight damage and looting. Our guide brought up instances of looting by both the English and the Americans who placed portions of the murals in the collections at Harvard and in Oxford. No photos permitted in the cave interiors. Sigh.

We had a lovely English-speaking guide who explained the iconography, symbol, and narratives. After the group exited the cave, she went back very briefly to shine the torch on Kuan Yin again, so she could see her one last time. She has been a guide at the Mogao Caves for 10 years. This strikes me in some ways as a dharmic job, a type of dream job really. She got in a bit of a disagreement with another English-speaking guide, who piggy-backed his group into our cave while our guide was speaking.